Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN
The Maddermarket Kitchen // Food Review
29/04/14
THE MADDERMARKET KITCHEN
THE GEN: It is often Dick Whittington who is heralded as the hero of his own story, going to London to find his fortune, hearing the streets were paved with gold and fulfilled his destiny as Lord Mayor. But it was his cat, his trusty pal that went to sea and made a name for himself as a great rat-catching talent, before returning home and being sold for a princely sum to the King. It’s a Dick Whittington story for Stewart Duffield, who took his experience and training from his time at St Benedicts Street restaurant under Nigel Raffles to Chelsea, where he worked under Tom Aikens, moving through the ranks. With skills sharpened and experience matured, he returned to Norfolk and has now fulfilled his dream of opening up a contemporary brasserie in the heart of Norwich, at the former 20 St John’s Restaurant site on Maddermarket Alley.
ATMOSPHERE: On a warm Tuesday evening, it’s easy to feel that The Maddermarket Kitchen has inherited much of the old restaurant’s pre-theatre clientele and good reputation, but they’re keen to assert themselves with their own identity. Gently swinging eclectic sounds provide a backdrop to a snug and relaxed dining room.
TO START: Tempura Prawns with Rocket and Aioli Having done a little Facebook stalking of the incumbent restaurant, I already knew the food would come out looking as pretty as a picture. Three flashes of yellow aioli trisect the plate, with the thick, arching prawns knotted in the middle, like a burgeoning flower bud. It’s a dish I know well from other places, and it was executed brilliantly here; garlic subtle but present, prawns juicy and firm and rocket and lemon rapier-sharp but in small enough quantities.
THE MAIN EVENT: Lamb Chump with Grilled Aubergine and Tabouleh C’mon, we know each other now. I know you like me to remove and ingest the gherkin from your McDonald’s cheeseburger; you know marzipan puts my teeth on edge. You should know - I went for the lamb. And it’s a choice I’ll never ever stray from if I keep being served up examples like tonight’s. Slightly caramelized and sweetened lamb, I could eat on its own, but happily it got even better with the freshest tastes of the Middle East’s finest - coriander, mint, parsley, onion and tomato - mathematically laced precisely through the tabouleh. It was so moreish, but so light.
PUD: PEACH AND STRAWBERRY TRIFLE I’m no food snob (ref: above McD’s confession) and though I’ve dined to a Michelin level (OK, that sounds snobby), I’ll also quite happily go at a Tesco smart price trifle with wavering dietary intentions and a big spoon. I don’t think I will be able to again though, as this dainty little crafted number came to me all billowy with cream, boozy strawberries and sweet peach.
VALUE: TMK are operating a simple to digest set menu, with one course at £13.95, two for £19.95 and the full three for £24.95. It’s a simple decision – either you have the spends to go today, or you should save to go ASAP. At the moment there’s no drinks licence, so they’re operating a B.Y.O.B policy with corkage charge – it could be the best value meal you’ve had in some time.
OVERALL: How I felt about TMK can be summarised in a little note on Jonathan, the Kitchen’s front of house manager. Jonathan, I believe, represents the values of those behind the scenes as well - they care about what you put in your mouth. Even suggesting I should try a different soft drink to the one I’d selected, and affirming his appreciation of the food choices I was making from the proudly select few, there’s thought, there’s consideration and that’s easy to palate.