Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN
Harbercue Smokehouse // Food Review
29/04/14
THE GEN: There are certain words that’ll bring a foodie to their knees: I would hazard a guess that ‘pulled’ and ‘brisket’ are a couple rated pretty highly. Type in ‘brisket’ to Pinterest, and it’s veritable provisions porn. But why in the name of all that’s holy would you be Googling it if you have the chance to goggle at it in the (deliciously tender) flesh? The Harbercue boys – four earnest gents from our region, including the two Harber brothers – have worked their magic to make this happen for you. After some time visiting the barbecue states of the US, they returned with smoke in their eyes, ready to bring the traditional barbecue smokehouse experience to Norwich. We’ve already been treated to a daily dose of smoker-fuelled food from The Garden House, which is SO good, so would Harbercue fare as well?
ATMOSPHERE: After a summer spent ‘popping up’ at the Playhouse, Harbercue’s latest pop up restaurant destination is the Ten Bells on St Benedicts. A pub of discerning taste, with the city’s largest selection of fine whiskies and gins, they would surely only let equally discerning fayre pass through the doors. On a Saturday night when Norwich was at its peak of Sound and Vision activity, there was a good rabble and noise.
THE MAIN EVENT: Boston Bun // Beef Tray // Sides While beef tray sounds like the kind of insult you’d throw at the local bicycle, it was actually one of two ways mama was gonna get her brisket tonight. ‘Case you’re wondering, I’m yo’ mama. This one came without a bun, just ruggedly piled in slices, thick enough for Desperate Dan to tile his floor with, but mercifully tender enough to the bite. The smokiness was just the right side of incendiary shrub fire to be enjoyed, and when slathered with Harbercue’s own selection of barbecue and hot sauces, it was meatopia. That’s a new word. You can have it. The pulled pork (Boston Bun) was just as much of a treat. Swaddled in a brioche bun, it needed a bit more sauce action than the beef, and the sharp tang of the accompanying gherkin to make it sing. But sing it did. With the beef tray (slut!), coming with a tonne o’ fries, you didn’t really need the sides, but for me, they became the unexpected star of the show. There’s a certain amount of expectancy when you get smoked meats on the menu, as we’ve said, but elevating humble corn on the cob and pickles to something special could have been overlooked. The cob, slathered in spicy butter, tempura fried jalapenos (my fave) and battered pickles pushed the limitations of my unbending greed.
DRINKS: Bacon Old Fashioned // Bourbon w / Pickle Chaser It wouldn’t have been right if the Ten Bells hadn’t joined the party, and thrown their two pence worth in to the drinks list. We obviously couldn’t resist the pig-infused single barrel Jack Daniels as every self respecting Brit will jump at the chance to drink bacon, but it was the Angostura bitters and zingy orange twist that were packing more of a recognisable punch. With me driving, my other half stepped up to the plate to down the shot of bourbon like a boss, and reported that washing it down with, effectively, a shot of vinegar, really put out the fire. She liked it, and courageous nutjobs like you are bound to too.
VALUE: The Harbercue is such good value. You could leave satiated, full and happy with just a £6.00 Boston Bun. You’ll probably not want to though. See those sides, as I mentioned above? Around £3.00 a pop for those will seriously make you question handing over more cash for less in other less imaginative places.
OVERALL: That night, I have to admit, I was in a rush; I was distracted, multi-tasking, conflicted. Maybe not a fair judge of the evening’s delights. But the real proof of the pudding? I went back, just a week later, and took my brother. It’s a testament that this place – like their big bowl of sides - is something you just have to share.