Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN

Iron House // Food Review

29/04/14

THE IRON HOUSE

THE GEN: It seems some small corners of the earth get caught more in the passing wind, and drift by as fast as they came. The corner spot joining Lobster Lane with St John Maddermarket looked to be such a place; once The Ironmongers Pub, it transitioned to Boltz Bar, then faster to Miike’s Bar, seeming to suggest it wasn’t a place for lingering long. That changed when owners of The Iron House, as it is now, completely renovated the building, opening it up and making it into the light, high ceilinged brasserie it is now. Serving everything from takeaway breakfast coffees to serving wedding parties, it’s made a name for itself since opening in 2011, and with any luck, is making that particular corner of the world a go-to, rather than a keep-going destination. I’ve made such bold claims before as to say this is my favourite restaurant in the city – will it prove me right tonight? 

ATMOSPHERE: You have two choices of dining experience at The Iron House; the intimate Low Ceiling enclave, or the bright and airy High Ceiling part of the restaurant. Sitting below the High Ceiling, surrounded by the massive panes of glass, you can let our beautiful city just pour in through the windows.

TO START: Asian Beef Kimchi Salad If restaurants were likened to hospitals, a brasserie serving flavours of the Med, France, honouring local dishes and then knocking out an Asian stunner would be like paging the chiropractor to nip into theatre to remove a colon. Each has their definite demands, skills and pitfalls, but this first Asian dish I’ve tried at the Iron House was a testament to their knowledge. The sweet and salty soy, citrus and ginger fuelled dressing tempered the iron rich beef, with the satisfying crunch of asian radish making it as fresh as a just-picked apple.

THE MAIN EVENT: Slow Cooked Shoulder of Lamb w/ Jannsons temptation I was going to not choose the lamb. Honest. But when it was promised alongside something called ‘Jannsons Temptation’ – a phrase that sounded like a tabloid headline regarding Ulrika Johnsson’s latest vice-fuelled antics – I had to find out. It turns out it’s like a Swedish dauphinois with anchovies. Nice. That’s no holds barred cooking that. Lamb, creamy spuds, curly kale, carrot puree and red wine jus is always going to be a foot in, but cooked tenderly and expertly, it was a real winner.

PUD: COFFEE WITH PETIT FOURS You know what’s better than pudding? Three puddings. And a coffee. I was playing the oh-so-conservative by picking up the ‘I’ll just have coffee’ baton like a respectable lady with one ear still on her bulging waistband, but then pulled the pro move of picking the one that came with some treats. Sometimes they’re the god awful fondant fancy types, but not this time – mini lemon posset, brownie and cake came cheekily shadowed by my attention-deflector, the coffee, and were dainty, but intensely delicious. And that’s when I took the crown for ‘best at doing restaurants like an educated fatty.’

VALUE: For the evening à la carte, you won’t get a starter under £5, or a main under £10, but neither will you be disappointed, or leave hungry. It’s a place for celebrations, for treats and indulgence, but if you want to try essence of The Iron House on a lower budget, you’re in luck. The lunchtime and brekkie menus are extensive, and nicely priced.

OVERALL: Working near The Iron House, I often see owner - Jeremy - outside sweeping, with a pencil behind his ear. While it’s not quite the footnote you’d expect in the Good Food Guide, I think you can tell a lot. They’re industrious, down to earth, creative – but the proof of course, is in the pudding. And remember, there were three of them.