Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN
Mad Moose // Food Review
10/12/12
THE MAD MOOSE
THE GEN: Part of Animal Inns, those local faves that include Mackintosh’s Canteen, the Mad Moose stands regally on the corner, tucked just away from Unthank Rd. The pub has enjoyed new life recently, as it simplified its previous two restaurants (upstairs used to be the 1Up), into one, that still enjoys two-tier dining, from pub pleasures, to finer dining treasures.
ATMOSPHERE: The ‘Moose’s super engaging manager Steve remarked that the pub had quietened down when we arrived on a Friday evening, but that’s a mark of their recent success, as to the contrary, we saw a bristling, humming buzz of after work drinkers and evening diners.
TO START: Crispy Squid and Prawns with Asian Coleslaw // Ham Hock Terrine with Piccalilli Ham hock terrine can often present itself as a plug of pink, gelatinous salt – not so with this considered starter; added caper berries and a fresh, crunchy and tangy homemade piccalilli were the perfect compliment, and the portions were Emma-proof, i.e. CHUNKY! The crispy seafood was as satisfying as you’d expect battered food, but the highlight was the Asian coleslaw – smoothly distributed waves of ginger and soy lapped over the watery bite of asian veg. Two words: De. Lish.
THE MAIN EVENT: Pulled Pork Scotch Egg w/ Bubble and Squeak // Crispy Chilli Chicken with Sesame Noodles Choosing one main from the specials (what you may once have expected from the 1Up), and one from the pub faves, we tested the Mad Moose on different levels – the hierarchy of their menus, and also their proficiency tackling modern British and then Asian cuisine. Turns out they have two very strong suits, acing both. While the scotch egg was slightly more concept than necessity-based – the egg was almost one protein too many after its mound of juicy pork casing – it was nevertheless packing a punch in flavour, with the meaty tang being muted by soft, sweet veg. The crispy chilli chicken was even more of a triumph, piled in sumptuous mountains of noodles, tender, juicy and plentiful. Two courses down, and I was more than impressed.
PUD: Slow Baked Chocolate Meringue w / Chocolate Mousse, Caramalised Banana and Tuille Biscuit Pretty as a picture, and the kind of dessert you dig your spoon deeper into with every mouthful. The mousse was heady with rich cocoa, and I could have eaten it alone without the other treats. It looked exquisite.
VALUE: On first glance of the menus, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the mains lingered around £1 over what you’d expect them to be, but if you’re given the quality we were privy to on our evening, this is a one-time, no-risk investment. Except it may not be one-time, when you quite possibly choose to return.
OVERALL: Matching your surroundings to your level of dining seems like an outdated affair – if we can sit in our pants, watching Masterchef Pros serving bottarga on the telly, we should be able to eat finer dining in a pub surrounding. With clothes on, just to clear confusion. Joining the two menus and letting us choose the dish for the occasion, and not the environment means we’re making our own choices. And that makes me a happy diner.