20 St John's, Norwich // Food Review
Experience fine dining in ultimate high-def, smell it and even taste it in this completely non-pretentious gem of a dining room...
THE GEN: In a dainty space a couple of skips down from the Maddermarket Theatre, 20 St John’s has its doors opened each day by husband and wife team, James and Nicole, who run kitchen and front of house respectively. Since its opening, they’ve modestly made their way towards the holy grail for restaurateurs – a high top 10 placing on Trip Advisor for our city. The food is quality, fine dining, but their humility shows in their unbeatable value set menus.
ATMOSPHERE: On a lunchtime service, 20 St John’s is a tranquil haven. Airy, yet welcoming, we take our window seat with the gentle hubbub of a ladies’ lunch behind us.
TO START: Roast Tomato & Basil Soup // Smoked Mackerel, New Potato and Spring Onion Salad Choosing from the Prix Fixe menu, the two starters were delightful in their diversity. The soup was dense in flavour, the essence of tomatoes intensified by the roasting process. It was the foodie equivalent of putting dry clothes on after an Autumn downpour. In contrast, the cool crispness of the potato and spring onion did everything to keep its dominant partner, the smoked mackerel in check, and was deliciously balanced.
THE MAIN EVENT: Chicken & Smoked Gammon Pie // Smoked Haddock Tagliatelle Pie and pasta – the Atkins nightmare, but a creamy dream on what was turning out to be another of our dull July days. Like a love letter to my indulgent side, the smoky fish swathed in cream and cheese filled me up within mouthfuls, with the iron hit of spinach being just the green antidote. Swapping pasta for its floury second cousin, pastry, it was too easy to sink into the welcoming pie, with chicken and gammon pieces being robust in their inclusion. The accompanying mash and greens the pie’s perfect bedfellows.
PUD: Dark Chocolate Cheesecake with Raspberry Compote Forget Grey – women’s satisfaction will come more often from 50 Shades of Cocoa. In this pud, the smooth, dark and mysterious member of the pack is like a thick emulsion round your mouth, titillating the bitter and sweet quarters, with the calmly tart raspberry cutting through a treat. Simply delish.
VALUE: At £10 for two courses, and £12.50 for three, the quality per pound is unbeatable. Pick up a coffee and soullessly wrapped panini in nearly any high street coffee shop and you won’t get much change for a tenner. Available both at lunch and early evening, save up your lunch money for a couple of days and treat yourself to real to food with real clout.
OVERALL: Many of us only experience fine dining through the medium of the telly, but see it in ultimate high-def, smell it and even taste it in this completely non-pretentious gem of a dining room, with less impact on your pocket than most mediocre chains.
