Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN

Woolf and Social

28/01/16

The Gen

Less than two months old, a little corner in Norwich’s Golden Triangle has just given birth to one of the newest additions to the fine city’s food scene. So new, in fact, that at our visit a few  additions were due to be made to the menu and the drinks selection yet to be finalised. However, this newborn knows exactly who it is, what it wants and has already turned its bold and confident first steps into a veritable gallop towards culinary excellence.

The Atmosphere

You know that sense of just feeling welcome? Like the feeling you get visiting your grandma and she’s bought that type of ice cream you really love, or the feeling Norm and Cliff got every time they popped into Cheers for a pint after work. Imagine that, an all encompassing sense that the person welcoming you into the restaurant is genuinely happy to see you. That is the overriding memory of my time at Woolf and Social. We were sat on repurposed wooden school chairs at a repurposed school table painted with a stylish chevron design. The walls are a cold grey that belie the warmth of the welcome and offer an uncluttered backdrop to the block colour artwork on display and the explosively original dishes. We were joined after our meal by the head chef and owner who so enthusiastically talked us through what he had created with hard work and the help of many friends. His excitement was infectious but had already come across through the wonderful plates he had created for us.

The Main Event

They may shy away from the label of fusion cuisine (probably because it’s a stupid, wanky label) but the menu was not constrained by convention nor by geographical limitations, with dishes drawing ingredients and complimentary flavours together from across the globe. A glance down the menu could undoubtedly leave an unprepared head spinning with baffling vocabulary. At best it could suggest pretentiousness and at worst an aloof exclusivity. It is therefore quite incongruous as this shadow never once crept over our table with our concerns dispelled by the friendly staff. 

The menu is small but imaginative with a great vegetarian selection and a note happily offering to adapt any dish for preferences or dietary requirements. Each item is served as it is ready and are best enjoyed shared with your party. This does make eating here a real social treat but I did have concerns that any delicate dishes might be overpowered if served after something a bit stronger. My fears were unfounded as the chefs prepared our meal in an effort to serve complimentary items together. 

As we were sat at our table we were immediately given a bowl of popcorn spiced with paprika and chilli which left a welcome deep warmth on a cold January night. Our first dish to arrive was charred purple sprouting broccoli, the crisp shoots and flower heads the perfect subtle taste for the accompanying fondue of Norfolk dapple cheese. Braised pig cheek was next; served with pickled fennel and sage it had an almost sickly sweet flavour that deliciously fell apart in my mouth to release bursts of taste. Following closely after a salad of beetroot, kohlrabi, blood orange and sorrel, the sharp and refreshing plate cut tartly through the cloying stickiness of the pigs cheek, and cleansed my palate. It arrived beautifully before us, fanned out in an elaborate array. The simplest dish came last, but it was one that this chef has become known for, starting out in here Norwich with a pop-up serving fried chicken that has previously featured on TV. I was looking forward to this and wasn’t disappointed. Each mouthful was a clean delight, unlike the shameful fried chicken I’ve scoffed in the past. It came with mayo smoked from the same woodchips used to build the bar in the corner.

Overall

There is a quiet confidence about each of the meals that came from the kitchen and a sense of adventure in tucking in to ours. Locally sourced produce turns into global cuisine complimented by a simple but excellent wine list. Our evening was fun and full of discovery, much more than you’d normally expect from a simple, friendly bite to eat.

Venue – 8

Fodder – 9.5

Value – 8

Overall – 9